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cw66
Starting Member
4 Posts |
 Posted - 06/05/2008 : 03:19:43
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I am starting a refurb on an elderly 6543 Ent, Mainly redecking, new transom and stern frame,and replacing sections of damaged/rotten hull which includes the rear section of floor where water has laid whilst the bow has been up in a boat park.
Does any one have any handy hints to make this easier or potential problems that I may encounter
. She is nearly stripped of paint and varnish so that she can dry out fully before I start anything else,
Has any one worked with Builder centre Marine ply to BS1088? Its much cheaper than any of the normal marine suppliers but i am wondering if it is really up to the job.
Any replies would be great,after many years away from sailing the water beckons again!!
Chris
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Edited by - cw66 on 06/09/2008 12:23:48 |
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spreyer
Starting Member
United Kingdom
7 Posts |
Posted - 06/11/2008 : 09:57:29
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Hi Chris,
I would recommend you make sure the boat is held square when removing the transom and floor for repair so it does not warp or trist as it sounds like most of the back end of the boat is to be replaced. When I did this I made a support cradle from timber and added large castor wheels on it. It holds the boat square while working on it and I can move the boat arround easily if I need to. When not in use I dismantle the cradle and store it up in the rafters of my garage.
As for using BS1088 ply I have no experience of this as we (my daughter and I) used marine ply on 6582. One word of warning about going to builders merchants though. From personal experience they may try to pass you off with exterior grade ply as marine ply, beleive it or not some simply do not know the differance! Make sure the ply you get has the kite mark on it and do not accept anything that does not no matter what assurance the builders merchant gives you, it simply will not be marine ply of any type if it does not.
What I would add is that using Epoxy resin and being thorough in your preparation, BS1088 should be fine provided it is good quality has not laying about in the open for a long period, but I hope others will comment on this for you. We diluted the epoxy resin 50/50 with celluloce thiners and sealed the ply first before using 2 pack varnish to finish off. Be sure the area is well ventilated when doing this and that the temperature is above 10C. Doing this gives a very strong seal over the ply and also runs into any "dry" joints and seams. You do have to be patient during the drying process as it does take a lot longer than neat expoxy. We gave the boat two coats all over and rubbed down with fine sandpaper after each coat. We then added 2 pack varnish as normal and toplak paint to the hull. These dry to a tough durable finish so the ply should be well protected.
Having sailed our boat every weekend for a while now 6582 still looks as good as new. I hope all goes well with your restoration and you enjoy 6543 as much as we do 6582. Our boats may be eldery but they are still as much fun to sail as a new one!
Steve
Steve
Chester Sailing & Canoeing Club
22821 |
Edited by - spreyer on 06/11/2008 10:02:43 |
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cw66
Starting Member
4 Posts |
Posted - 06/12/2008 : 16:29:21
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Thanks for the detail Steve, I fear that I am a bit late to make a cradle for the back of the boat, by the time I had removed the filler that had been applied to the rotten ply there was no back to the boat!!!!!. It now weighs a lot less than when it entered the garage. I have made support braces which go across the stern to hold the shape so with luck it shouldnt be to bad. I am waiting for official plans for the transom so I can make it accurately and then if it has lost any shape It will pull it back together.
The epoxy idea sounds good so I will go down that route, how long did it take to dry?
I went into the builders yard and had a look at the ply kitemarked and bs1088 stamped on it. A pity the outer veneers are thin,but after a coat of epoxy I wont be sanding the wood down in a hurry. The colour is a little pale but I can stain it to match the rest of the wood. The guys at the yard will let me choose which sheets I want so I can avoid any dodgy bits.
Will keep you posted as to how its going
Chris
6543 |
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spreyer
Starting Member
United Kingdom
7 Posts |
Posted - 06/18/2008 : 09:35:16
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Hi chris,
The drying time of the epoxy depends on the temperature. The warmer it is the quicker it dries, but do be prepared to wait 24hrs if needed. None the less it's worth the wait. Make sure you mix the correct amount of harder and then add the thinners a bit at a time so as not to over dilute the mixture. We used a small gloss roller to apply the epoxy evenly and make it go further.
Good luck with the refurb and do keep us all up to date with your progress
Steve |
Edited by - spreyer on 06/18/2008 09:36:43 |
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cw66
Starting Member
4 Posts |
Posted - 09/18/2008 : 16:21:16
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Quick update on how things are going . New stern frame is now in place so she has her shape back and a new 16 inch section of hog fitted at the stern. The centreboard case has been dismantled, stripped, rebuilt, varnished and refitted.All the varnish and paint is now off all of the accessories so the next step is deciding where to buy the ply from and sorting the holes in the hull out and replacing a 12 inch section of the keel.will keep you informed how it goes over the next few months
Chris |
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enterprisenw
Steve 21350
United Kingdom
40 Posts |
Posted - 10/13/2008 : 20:24:27
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Don't forget if you have refubished a boat make sure you email webmaster Steve with all your photos and reports so i can show the Ent world what agood job you have done.
Steve |
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Topic |
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Enterprise refurb
